Friday came and it's starting to sink in that I've been here a while. Rebecca's doing work so I read and putter around the apartment make breakfast of leftovers and iron. I could go out for a walk, but we've got a raging storm going on outside. It's a pretty impressive view from 30 floors up the rains sheeting down, nature's way of accomplishing the weekly cleaning. Rebecca grumbles about the rains…she's a bit sick of this weather, but it is the "rainy season" here, so I think that this is what we have to expect right? It makes for an impressive show and I spend some time just watching from the balcony. It doesn't seem to distract the locals. They are still hard at work on the construction sites despite the downpour and while the air is thick with moisture, the temperature cools down quite a bit so much so that I need a sweater. I'm not sure if there is such a thing as a typical work week, but the construction sites are humming day and night. I feel as if I am getting over my jet lag, but I'm still a bit tired. I have vowed to get enough sleep while I'm here, so I allow myself an afternoon siesta and wake up feeling groggy. Having no agenda is a luxury…I cannot remember when I don't have a laundry list of things to accomplish, but it's a good feeling and I am able to relax more easily here because of it. It's in my nature not to be idle, so I am constantly tidying up. It certainly does not seem to bother the roommates or Rebecca. Late in the afternoon I freshen up and get dressed up as we plan to go to services at Chabbad on the other side of town. Rebecca and I take the subway and transfer to a bus which takes us to within several blocks of the Chabbad house. she explains that while there is a subway that goes close to there, it quits running after 7:30 in the evening and she may go out afterwards, and she wants to familiarize me with this route. The bus is a bit different than what I'm used to. While the driver sits up front, there is another person by the back door who is responsible for seeing that you pay or swipe your bus passes. Rebecca tells me that they are not all like that. One young woman gets on and does not walk to the back to swipe her pass. Instead the ticket taker goes to her, gets her pass and swipes it and returns it to her. We get to our stop and walk the several blocks to Chabbad. This seems to be an affluent area of town. We pass a pastry shop that is quite nice and peek in as I'm curious. It's mostly French pastries with a Chinese bent. They are beautiful, and I think that sometime I will come back and indulge, but not tonight. It's Shabbat and it's bad enough that we have to carry our wallets into the house…don't really want to offend our hosts. Services have already started and we take our places on the women's side. A wooden lattice "mechitza" separates us from the men, and I realize that this is the first time that I have prayed like this. My reform training has not prepared me for this, but I a enjoying the experience nonetheless. The Hebrew is fast and furious with page numbers being called out from time to time. That is the only English that is spoken during the service. There are twice as many men on the other side as women on our side. The singing that accompanies the service is lively, but Rebecca tells me that it's usually boisterous…that this is a quiet crowd. We use well worn prayerbooks and there is English translation opposite the Hebrew. Much of the service is familiar, but some of the melodies are not. Soon enough the service is over and we wish each other a good Shabbos and go upstairs to the dining room for blessings and a meal. This is an intimate group. Across town there is a large Sephardic congregation and also another in the area of the airport. We will probably check them all out. It's an interesting cross section from many parts of the globe. One table is full of Lubavitchers complete with payes, satin robes and fur hats. Several of the women have their heads covered. All of the men are wearing kippot. We have worn dresses and our arms are covered, but some women have pants on and some of the men are dressed casually while others are dressed in suits with their tzit tzit showing appropriately. We are served by several Chinese workers (essentially their version of the Sabbath Goyim) who provide us with challot and salads to start off…cucumber, beets, beans, pasta, hot sauce and olive and chickpea hummus. They remove these dishes and serve chicken soup. Anyone new to the congregation or visitors are asked to introduce themselves and each table must pick a song to sing. The group includes people from Israel, Brazil, Venezuela, Belgium, England and the U.S. I recognize a man that traveled on the same plane over as I and introduce myself. The meal is served buffet style and it's like we are not in China at all. There is couscous and chicken, stuffed cabbage, and green beans and roasted potatoes. Conversation is lively and every so often the Rabbi comes around with Scotch and/or Vodka to offer to anyone a "L'Chaim". He speaks to why we should be joyous on Shabbat. I am sitting next to and across from some young Israelis that Rebecca has met before. One of them has American parents who made aliyah years ago and she is a bit naive about the states, in my opinion, and American Jews and Reform Jews. I try to correct what I think are her stereotypes without argument, just letting her know about my experiences, but I'm not sure that she quite understands. It's all about perspective, and I have many years on her to provide me with a different lens. I remember when I was that age and how my opinions were expressed with such certainty, but now I realize that things are never so black and white. Hindsight is much clearer. Nonetheless we have a nice exchange. We sing the Birchat Hamazon after dessert and then linger over coffee and tea. When we finally leave, it's after 11:00 and Rebecca realizes that we've missed any opportunity to catch the subway home, so we hail a cab and she is aggravated that we must spend the money getting back this way. We talk on the way home about how she feels about Shanghai and it's culture and art scene. I again am reminded of my impatience with things when I was her age. She is far more worldly than I was at that age, but still frustrated by how slowly things get accomplished, how shallow the Shanghainese are and how disappointed she is with contemporary art. She knows that this is perhaps a sign of the times that this is not only prevalent in China, this consumerist shallow ideology of the current generation, but again I am seeing this city with fresh eyes and with the perspective of one who has less urgency to accomplish things. I remember how I felt at that age and for once I begin to appreciate being 53 despite the fact that I envy the enthusiasm of youth. when we get home it's midnight. I fall asleep reading and wake up a bit later, change out of my clothes and go to bed. Rebecca stays up, perhaps she will meet her friends, but I'm beat. Before I completely fall asleep, the intercom rings and one of her roommates has ordered MacDonalds take out…kind of ironic. I hear Rebecca giggling wishing that I was awake to see it, but I am drifting asleep and cannot muster the strength to get up…I'm sure there will be ample opportunity to see this another day………..

Monday…I haven't written in a couple of days…the internet's been down ( I think we have to pay the bill.) and I've been just jotting down things to write them later. We've sort of settled into a routine here. I've been here almost a week and I am an early riser…I think my jet lag is finally gone… and it's kind of nice to be up early to have some time to myself to reflect and think read, write and watch the city come alive. The recent rains have dissipated and the humidity is thick almost hanging over us waiting to burst forth and produce relief, albeit temporary, with another downpour. Rebecca tends to sleep late and stay up late in the evening…sometimes going out with friends to clubs, sometimes reading and chatting with our apartment mates. Saturday I woke up early, as usual, and I have gotten into the habit of tidying up the place in the mornings…washing dishes, damp mopping, ironing, laundry, grocery shopping. Then I write or ready until Rebecca gets up to see what is on her agenda. I'll fix breakfast for her too, which she appreciates. In this way I feel as if I am making up for her tour guiding. I went to the market, this time the "e-mart" and bought some essentials and milk (very expensive for here), some more dish detergent, bleach (you know me) white bread, and basically what amounts to thick sweet melba toast slices sprinkled with rock candy sugar. I was really curious as I'd seen it everywhere. I came home feeling pleased with myself because I had navigated the store and paid without too much confusion. I was unable to buy bananas however because I guess you have to weigh them before you get to the checkout and I had not. I meandered around the area soaking in the sights and sounds…tai chi on the open space in between the shops…children running around…people doing their marketing…mothers chatting while looking after their babies. I am fascinated with their ingenuity. I was struck by the same thoughts when I was in Nigeria…perhaps I see how we Americans have lost that edge perhaps because we haven't felt the kind of pressures that others have because if they don't work, they won't survive. I'm not sure, but wherever there is an inch of space, there is a hub of activity. When I got back, I busied myself unpacking the groceries until Rebecca gets up and then I fixed us some french toast and used some of our maple syrup that I had brought her. She had a English lesson scheduled for one of her clients, so we planned for me to go with her and just walk around while her lesson was taking place. We got off one subway stop early so that we could walk through Nanjing Dong Lu a walking mall for lack of better term on the way. The only place that I have ever seen a walking mall like this was in Boulder, Colorado. Take that one and multiply it like 10,000 times and you get the picture. It's a chopping District with wall stores, mostly of the department store variety and places to eat and hotels…very upscale… and there throngs of people that crowded the mall…well you just can describe it if you are a girl that has lived in Monson, Maine for the last 27 years…it makes the crowds in New York look like child's play. If one does not want to walk down this pedestrian throughway, one can always grab a shuttle which goes careening down the center in both directions, sort of an open air mini train like the ones you find at an amusement park only gas powered making your stroll somewhat of an obstacle course as you dodge those and or bicycles and scooters. I must say that it is remarkable seeing so many people all the time. Rebecca meets her student, an adult male in his thirties at, where else a Starbucks (kind of ironic) and tells me to meet her there in about 2 hours. There's enough to do…tons of place to browse and window shop. As I go down the street peering in to the windows, I see a line forming and curious, I get closer to see what is going on. Lo and behold, there is a Krispy Kreme franchise and they are handing out free doughnuts. The Chinese love both all things Western and their snack foods, so it is a perfect match, but so weird to see. I pop into shop after shop and finally in search of a bathroom, I go to the fifth floor of a department store and locate one. It even has regular toilets and toilet paper, quite a luxury in these parts. Oh and FYI, take hand sanitizer with you as most often there is no soap in the bathrooms either. My feet are beginning to hurt, I should not have worn these shoes, and I try to find a pair of flip flops, but this is in a fancy area and I am not willing to splurge even if I am in pain. Finally I Iocate a "dollar store" and find a pair for about 10 RMB, about a dollar fifty, that's more what I had in mind. My feet thanks me as I slip into them as do my blisters…oy veh. There are sales going on everywhere and unique at home, there are always salespeople willing to help. I am just browsing today. Soon enough 2 hours are over and I meet Rebecca. We decide to go to Peoples Park, Renmin Gong Yuan as it is a beautiful day…blue sky not clouded by the normal gray pollution of this city. It is hot probably i the high eighties, but for here at this time of year very peasant. The gardens are lovely…manicured lawns and shady trees we wind our way around couples strolling together, girlfriends laughing, grandparents tending their precious grandchild, teenage boys trying to look cool. There are ponds in which large lilly pads float, and as we pass them, Rebecca gets excited as she spies the Shanghai "Meet Market". Hundreds of signs are hung from the branches of the bushes and older parents and matchmakers linger near them. We have stumbled upon Match.Com, Shanghai style. Evidently, these are parents concerned that their single 30ish unmarried, professional daughters are getting along in years and so they take matters into their hands and "post", quite literally, their statistics in order that eligible young men and or their parents become aware that they are available. We walk and walk enjoying the sights, there is an amusement park within this garden, and children and adults enjoying themselves squealing with glee as they ride the rides. Snacks here consist of sausage like hot dogs served on wooden skewers, grilled meat/ chicken shish kebabs, and corn on the cob, milk teas, soy drinks and frozen ice cram bars and popcorn, soda and water. We enjoy just walking around and people watching and many of them enjoy watching us, although in this area of town, there are more foreigners so we are not as much of an anomaly. We leave the park and walk down to see the "county seat" for lack of a better term, The government building which houses the offices for this district…just as they have Beefeaters in London, so there are immobile, expressionless guards in front of this large stone edifice. We pass a couple of monks with shaved heads wearing gray robes and they stand out in sharp contrast to their surrounding compatriots. It's nearing suppertime and we go to Yang's for dinner. It is a local place in the mall famous for it's shenjianbao dumplings. Though there are many places to eat close to this one, most of them are half full while Yangs has a line out the door. We pay and then stand in line to get our order peeking in the glass windows to see an assembly line operation…one guy fooling out the dough and flipping the dough into a pile while 4 or 5 others scoop in filling and sculpt them into little pockets. They are then placed into trays awaiting their turn on the large cast iron pans to sizzle in oil and get sprinkled with sesame seeds. We salivate as the aroma teases our senses and then try to find anywhere to perch to eat them. As the place is packed, people do not linger or eat in a leisurely manner. They are intent and there is a method to consuming this popular snack. You pour a dark vinegar over them and add hot peppers if you want. Then you pick them up one at a time, biting a little hole at one end quickly sucking out the delicious juice inside. My first attempt does not go well and I provide

Rebecca with a small shower. That obviously has happened once or twice here before. We eat quickly listening to the sounds of slurping while sweating profusely. The dumplings are hot and the place is packed. Bellies full, we finally head home and brave the subway masses. I am a bit surprised by the "cutting in line" or the pushing on the the trains to get a seat. However unaware of personal space limits, they are, if someone gets on the train who is older or pregnant, and the seats are taken, they are given up as a matter of courtesy. The jostling and jockeying for position is just part of their custom as they say, "when in Rome"… Once back at the apartment I take a nap, the day has taken it's toll an when I wake up, Rebecca makes plans to go out. She leaves and I chat a bit with Kevin before retiring to watch a movie on the computer. Rebecca has told me that since one of the girls is leaving on Monday, that she'll be out really late.

Then next morning (Sunday) I wake really early around 5 and while I'm in the bathroom, Rebecca comes in. Exhausted she immediate crashes while I get up and start my day. A cup of tea (cha) on the balcony and I oversee the stirrings of the neighborhood ad Shanghai comes to life. Hard to believe that one week ago I was getting on a plane to come here. It does not seem possible. I survey the refrigerator and see the remains of the egg mixture that I used for yesterday's french toast and use it to fashion a sort of rice "gruel"/ pudding. It's not the best thing I've ever eaten, but will fill me up for the time being. I spend the morning as I always do, wiping down the ever present film of Shanghai silt off the counters and surfaces and damp mopping the floors, straightening up from last night. Rebecca wakes up late eats a bit of breakfast and then naps again. She is exhausted and I don't mind the time alone. I read and play cards, things I rarely do at home because there never seems to be enough time. I've already finished 2 books and am starting a third. I am frustrated by the lack of internet because I like to touch base with John, but I'll take a trip to a place that has wireless if it isn't fixed soon. At around 10, firecrackers start going off. At first I think it's at the construction site next to us, work goes on 7 days a week there, but then see it's in front of a store close by to us. Rebecca later informs me that any excuse is a good one to set these off…new baby, store opening…whatever. Rebecca finally emerges in the early afternoon and readies herself to go to work. Today's lesson is for a 14 or 15 year old girl and I'm going to tag along and go to another park and amuse myself while Rebecca teaches. We take the subway to the stop near Century Park and agree to meet in two hours. Before I head out to the park I spend a half an hour or more browsing through the underground subway market at this stop on line 2. It's like a cross between a flea market as the "stores" are tiny and the underground mall in Montreal, for those of you who have traveled there. It has literally anything that you could want…suitcases, handbags, shoes, clothes pearls, jewelry, trinkets, cloth, tailors, t shirts, jeans, cashmere sweaters, polo shirts, golf equipment and other sporting goods and it goes on and on and on without end. I heard, "lady you want…I give you good price…beautiful lady…special price, today only". I smile, tell them, Bu Yao, Xie,Xie ( literally no want thank you) and walk on…they are persistent. I will come back later on another day because I will want to bring home some gifts for sure, but just not today. I leave this shopping mecca, which is packed by the way, and walk in the direction of the park. Along the way I am fascinated by my people watching…the women wearing ankle socks made of stocking material, truly not a good look especially with a skirt, people in pajamas the couples walking arm in arm while the husband/ boyfriend lugs his woman's purse for her. Often they are wearing matching polo shirts. It feels like it's always rush hour, but Rebecca tells me I have seen nothing yet. What I don't see is graffiti or beggars, things ever-present in the subways at home. En route to Century Park I walk past the Museum of Science and Technology. It is a massive structure and it appears to web white busy on this Sunday afternoon. I pause wondering whether or not to go in, but perhaps I'll save that for when Matthew comes or for a day that is not so sunny. It costs 10 kuai to get into this park, about $1.50. it's beautiful…on a small lake and you can rent paddleboats, tandem bicycles, or covered bicycle surreys for 2 or four. People are strolling around or riding or paddling, some are tucked in the trees shielded from the sun by portable pop-up tents having picnics, or splashing close to shore with their kids. Funny, on this hot day, nobody is swimming. A family stools by with a new baby and I look up the word for beautiful (piao liang) and comment as I walk by. They smile and thank me for the compliment (xie xie) (Sheeyeh sheeyeh). A wizened old woman smiles at me as she collects the bottles and cans left behind. At the prescribed time I meet Rebecca and we return to the complex in order to freshen up before going out to dinner with friends. It's an eclectic group…French, Irish, Australian, and us. They pick a chain restaurant serving an odd mix of mostly adequate but nothing special western food. I listen to the conversations and remember having similar ones with my group of international friends when I was that age. I am nostalgic. After dinner, we cab it home and Rebecca and I go buy watermelon and bananas, but when we get home, I am so spent that I immediately go to bed. I don't think that I even waited for my head to touch the pillow before I was fast asleep. I will post more soon, but we're off to the Bund today. Zaijian!

Every morning I wake up thinking that this will wear off, the wonder and curiosity that I am experiencing, but each day brings something new to marvel at. Yesterday, Monday, as usual I stir before the rest of the apartment. Pierre gets up the earliest for work, but I am alone for several hours. Because we still don't have internet, I can't take care of the details that I have made a list to do, so I must make time to get that taken care of or find an internet cafe. Rebecca and I plan a sight seeing expedition for today. I have expressed interest in going to see the Bund and watch the goings on along the river, so we plan our day to do that. First, however, we go to see the electronics market. Think Best Buy to the nth degree. Our subway becomes an elevated train by the time we get there. It is in a neighborhood called Hongkou. It's basically a flea market set up, so small booths and shelves crammed together with narrow aisles to walk through. It's housed under a huge corrugated aluminum roof and the pace here is less frenetic due to the heat. It's cooler in there than outside as today the sun is beating down on us. I apply sunscreen to ward off sunburn. Inside the market you can get any sort of technology item…knock offs primarily…any kind of phone or mp3 player, stereos, speakers, cameras, video cameras, vacuum cleaners, fans, watches, clocks, and computers. There is also a smattering of other stuff…shoes, clothes, electric cooking utensils, refrigerators and washing machines (I still have not seen a dryer here…our apartment has a washer but not a dryer…we hang our clothes out to dry.) among other things. People are not grabbing us to try to sell us stuff here. Perhaps it's too hot or we just don't appear to be in a buying mood. On the edges of the market there are little food vendors in the alleyways. We choose one and he prepares our lunch for us. As far as Western concepts of hygiene go, let's just say that it wouldn't pass muster because the veggies weren't covered or refrigerated, but we figured with the coal fired wok and the intense heat coming from it, we would take our chances. Our chao cai (stir fry) consisted of chicken, potatoes, peppers, jalapenos and a sauce and we got rice to go with it. The more I eat here, the more I realize that the concept of Chinese food that I am used to is just a drop in the bucket. We munch our lunches with chopsticks as we meander through the market. When we've had enough of our fill (with both electronics and food) we head back to the subway. En route, we pass through a parking area which is chocker block full of scooters. If I say in once, I'll say it a bunch, there are just so many people and bikes!!!!!!!!!!! On our way to the Subway to go visit the Bund area, we stop to pick up drinks to cool us off. I get my favorite, a slushee made of mango and Rebecca opts for a lemon basil combination with small jelly pearls in it. It's weird the first time you suck one of those through your straw, but it's not bad when you get used to it. The heat is really intense and it's a relief to get to the subway. They are air conditioned and the combination of cool drinks and the cool air fortifies us for the next stop. The Bund according to the guidebooks was originally a towpath and its name is of Anglo-Indian origin meaning embankment . It came to prominence when foreign banks and trading houses established their claims and built the neoclassical and art deco edifices that remain overlooking the Huangpu River. Rebecca tells me that the side that we are on represents China's past and across the river, China's future an equally impressive display of high-rise modern architecture sprung up within the last 15 years or so. As usual the place, like all other places in China is packed with mostly Chinese and a few foreign tourists. the "boardwalk", actually concrete is really wide and long and the cameras click away as families, couples, and children are digitally captured in front of the spectacular view. Although the skies are blue, the rainbow of umbrellas dots the scene shielding the bearers from the blazing sun. The river is busy and it's a scene right out of a movie as the boats pass in front of us. Rebecca and I sit and she sketches the skyline as I survey the people. As often as not, people come up to us and look over her shoulder to see what she is drawing. Then they ask to have a picture sitting next to us. We are a novelty to them. I'm not sure that they would do this if I were alone, but this blonde lao wai provides an opportunity for them not to be missed. We linger until the heat is too much and then walk to catch a bus home. On the way to the stop, we pop into a couple of places, Dolce and Gabbana (just browsing) and an old fashioned bank ( to use the bathroom) This impressive building is a work of art. The foyer with its 30 foot or so ceiling is decorated with mosaic scenes of many world capitals. The marble tiles and columns and lacquered woodwork and furnishings are a throwback to a different and more opulent time. It is wonderfully quiet and cool a little oasis from the noise and heat of the outside. Once home, I take one of the several brief showers that I take daily to cool down and have an iced tea before taking a nap. My chest is heavy and I feel a bit congested not surprising when you realize what my virgin lungs have been trying to process. One really appreciates the clean crisp air of a Maine summer morning when faced with the polluted air of the city. When I wake up later, Rebecca offers me dinner, a tofu and veggie stir-fry that she has thrown together. I stay up for a bit, but not really late and she and Kevin decide to go meet some more French friends at a club. I am happy to nurse my oncoming cold and go to bed. I think that tomorrow we need to take care of the internet issue for sure………

Tuesday morning… my chest is heavy and I drink tea and have toast trying to wake up and clear my congested lungs. I head outside after about an hour and a half to the grocery store next to our complex only to find out that it doesn't open until 7:30. I decide to explore a bit more of the neighborhood. As I walk down the road that we usually buy our snacks I decide to keep walking as I see tons more activity down the road. Our complex is neat and orderly with guards manning the gates and manicured gardens. These houses literally several blocks away are crowded one to three story dwellings on top of each other with narrow alleyways and laundry hanging everywhere. Privacy is nonexistent, it is really a middle class phenomenon anyway, and the streets and narrow alleys are humming with the morning's activities. I have stumbled on to a Shanghai microcosm of daily life. People are out and about selling, buying, going about their morning rituals. Vegetable vendors, cooked foods, steamed buns, scallion pancakes, fish, seafood, meat live chickens, lotus, baskets, fans, you name it, it's here. I'm not even sure that Rebecca has been down this far, and I so regret not having my camera with me. Of course even a camera wouldn't do it justice…no to get this, you've got to see it, hear it and smell it. As it nears 7:30, I return to go to the grocery store. It is not yet open and a crowd has formed on the outside of the metal mesh gates . The women start to voice their displeasure as the minutes tick away until they sound like fishwives and begin rattling the gates in desperation. Evidently they want in and a manager comes to open the human floodgates just in time. Apparently there is a sale going on and they line up immediately to get in on it. I am here for essentials, milk, eggs, yogurt, kleenex, and dish detergent. I spot some sausage that I like and put that in my cart. Another shopper sees it and asks me where to get it. Wordlessly I convey the message with my finger pointing the way. She nods in acknowledgement. I browse the aisles some more and find some plastic popsicle molds and put them into my basket. These hot days dehydrate me and popsicles will be just the ticket. I make my purchases and head home. I unpack the groceries and make tea and lemonade before showering in a feeble attempt to cool down. It won't matter, in 15 minutes it will be all for naught. Rebecca gets up after i have mopped and tidied up and I make her a breakfast of eggs and toast. As we figure out our day I describe the neighborhood that I have ventured into and ask her if she has ever been that far down. She hasn't, so I say let's go. She showers and we head out. It's less busy than it was before. These folks get out and get their shopping early. I show her a place that had a line going up the street earlier and we realize that it was for steamed buns. We look at the operation and then see that the steamer pans are about 2 times the size of a commercial dishwasher pan, square in size and stackable. The cook is tending the coal fired steamer and literally hundreds of round perfectly white buns are being turned out and sold 3 at a time for about 20 cents. They are each softball sized. I am taking pictures and they are loving it. They are HOT off the press and we wait for them to cool off before biting into one. They are not filled with anything, but would be perfect to sop up gravies and such. I stop and buy a fan and take pictures of the vendor. They are happy to oblige. this is not some beautiful fan of the Japanese geisha variety. This is purely utilitarian and will be put to good use over the course of today. As we peer down the alleys, we tuck into one that intrigues us, darkened by the tarps protecting them overhead from whatever elements. Inside the cement is wet undoubtedly from washing the various items. It stinks of discarded,rotting vegetables, fish smells and chicken excrement. Despite our western sensibilities, this food couldn't be fresher. When buying a chicken, you choose the live one to be killed and it is done so in front of you. What is revolting to us, causing our stomaches to lurch and our throats to taste bile, is de rigger to these folks. Inside this dark and pungent corner few lao wais enter, so we are regarded as the novelties that we are. We watch as a woman squats and proceed to decapitate live frogs and skin them i one deft movement, recoiling in disgust when we realize that the hearts are still beating. Definitely this is not kosher style killing, but it makes you think twice about what will be on your plate for dinner once you have seen this. I come away with a newfound respect for people who process our food. Oh how I could convey the scenes that we encounter a these folks go about their daily lives. It seems so far away from a law office in Dover-Foxcroft or even from the apartment where I now sit typing on the 30th floor of my high-rise building listening to the strains of someone practicing piano in a nearby apartment. So near and yet so far…..We head later to the French Concession area of Shanghai…no longer called that (now several districts including Jing'An and Dapuqiao), and meander through the expensive and fancy shops. Of course hanging above many of the shops and overpriced cafes is the laundry of those who live in the back alleys. It's an incongruous pairing. Even I am shocked at the prices, $5 for a glass of orange juice, so we eschew an afternoon coffee in lieu of an ice cream and keep walking. After window shopping we take the subway to the Shanghai library to use the internet. One must pass through metal detectors and cannot bring much in to the library. Backpacks are screened and then must be checked into lockers in the coat room. to use the internet is free for the first hour, but of course Skype will be unavailable. As I suspect, John has been valiantly trying to get in touch with me. I catch up on email, explaining our situation and then we head home. I make a dinner of the vegetables in the fridge (a chao cai) with rice and wake Rebecca who has been napping. We are planning a quiet evening and Rebecca suggests we try to use the wireless at Starbucks to get in touch with John. We catch a weak signal and get through to Matthew who is a bit wound up about his travel plans and, after listening to us argue for several minutes, Rebecca throws up her hands and goes to hang out with her friends at their apartment. I finally get a call from John and we catch up on news. Will post more soon and I send love to all of you. later….